Note When Purchasing Thick Resin or Kleer Kote epoxy: These resins are very thick and will make dispensing difficult and inaccurate. We recommend using our graduated plastic mixing containers to properly measure and mix the Thick Resin and Kleer Kote systems. Generally used in combination with our thick resin for an excellent coating epoxy. The faster cure of this particular hardener will also result in a more rigid laminate.
Please purchase each item separately. Cat No. Epoxy Resin and Hardener Systems. Polyester Resins. Epoxy Resins. Polyester Gelcoats. Colored Pigments. Polyester Products. Ortho Isophthalic Vinyl Ester. White Tooling Gelcoat Clear. Translucent Solid Colors. Duratec Glazing Putties Primers. Epoxy Menu. Epoxy Pumps. Description of Hardeners. Kleer Kote Epoxy for Table Tops. West System Epoxy. Our Resin System is a high quality resin which is popular for lamination with fiberglass, carbon fiber, kevlar or any type of reinforcement.Mixing instructions are included on the can or bucket.
Add to polyester or vinylester laminating resins for allow them to cure tack free for surface coating or sanding coats. Contains parafin wax which at lower temperatures may coagulate, simply warm and it will flow back out into solution. Colder shops will use a lamp or heat box to keep it at temperature.
Includes a 3M silicone face piece, 2 vapor cartridges, pre filters, and prefilter retainers.
Rate this Site. I found this great product at Fiberglass Supply, I thought you might be interested in it. Check it out! Click Image To Enlarge. Powered by Fortune3.
Polyester Resins. This is not the poor quality resin you get at the big box store. Cures with a surface tack so that subsequent layers can be applied without sanding. Surface Agent can be added to the resin to get a smooth tack free surface. Requires MEKP to cure. NOTE: Items are not refundable. You may also be interested in:. Pint Can, Surface Agent Pint Can, Surface Agent Add to polyester or vinylester laminating resins for allow them to cure tack free for surface coating or sanding coats.
X 32cc Catalyst Dispenser 16 oz. X 32cc Catalyst Dispenser, squeeze bottle with graduated measuring cup on top. The silicone face piece is very comfortable and conforms to a broad range of face contours.
You may also be interested in:. Add to cart. All Rights Reserved.Epoxy is an extremely easy process that creates amazing results. With the help of our awesome team - ready to answer any questions you may have - and our step-by-step instructions, your epoxy is sure to come out looking incredible.
Here are some of the most common problems with epoxy, and how to avoid them. Fish eyes: Fish eyes occur when the epoxy is stressed and spread too thin. They are characterized by a crater in the epoxy with a dot in the middle. To avoid fish eyes, make sure to purchase more than enough epoxy to cover your square footage.
If fish eyes do occur, add more epoxy to the spot with the issue before it cures. If your epoxy has already cured and you have fish eyes, you will need to pour another coat over the epoxy.
Sticky or soft spots: After epoxy is poured and has cured for 36 hours, the surface should be hard and smooth. Sticky or soft spots are the result of improper mixing. When mixing epoxy be sure to mix for 5 minutes, scraping the sides and bottle of the bucket repeatedly. After exactly 5 minutes, pour the epoxy into a new clean bucket and continue mixing with a new clean stirring stick for 4 minutes.
This ensures that there are no remnants of unmixed Parts A or B creating soft spots in the middle of your countertop. If you follow these instructions, you will never have a soft spot. If you don't follow instructions and do end up with a soft spot, you may need to scrape the uncured epoxy off your surface and re-pour a new coat. Gooey epoxy not spreading easily: As soon as you have mixed parts A and B according to instructions, the mixed epoxy should be poured out and spread over the surface of your project.
When these two components come in contact with each other during mixing, a chemical reaction takes place that generates heat. Leaving the epoxy in your bucket for too long will cause it to generate more heat and begin to harden more quickly. Once the epoxy is poured onto your countertop or flooring the greater surface area will slow curing time and give you around 30 minutes to an hour to create your masterpiece. Most often this is caused by over-eager mixing with a drill set on high speed.
When using a drill with a stirring paddle, to be on the safe side, keep your drill set on the slowest range. Wait a minimum of 6 hours after skim coating before applying the flood coat. This also helps to level the epoxy.
Note: Be sure not to torch the vertical edges of your countertop, as this will cause the epoxy to thin out and run off, leaving the color on your edges thin and streaky. One last word of advice: For proper curing, always be sure that the room where you are working, substrate and epoxy are at a temperature of F C degrees before mixing.
In conclusion, make sure you have the proper temperature, use adequate material for your square footage, carefully follow mixing instructions, be sure to pour mixed epoxy out of the bucket soon after mixing, and torch your epoxy immediately after spreading. If you follow these instructions, you should end up with a beautiful creation that will last a lifetime. Get the latest updates on new products and upcoming sales.If you're preparing to add a coat of epoxy to something, you're definitely wondering how much epoxy you need.
This is a question that brings a lot of stress for inexperienced epoxy users, because once you start mixing the epoxy you feel like you're in a race against the clock to get it mixed and poured before it starts gelling, and you want to have everything you need ready to go before you start.
How much epoxy you need will depend on several different factors; there's no one right answer for every situation. We'll go over all the different things you need to take into account before you start measuring out your resin and your hardener, and try to give you as much clarity as possible. If you're applying epoxy to a porous surface, the answer is probably yes.
That changes things a bit when you're calculating the amount of epoxy you need.
A seal coat is a thin layer of epoxy that you apply with a brush. On wood or other porous surfaces, the seal coat prevents air bubbles from forming in the final epoxy layer. It's a thing enough layer that if air is bubbling out of the wood, it won't get trapped by the epoxy.
You can just brush over that spot again after the air escapes. Then, once the seal layer has cured, you can apply the final, thicker layer of epoxy without worrying about air bubbles. A seal coat is an extra layer of epoxy, albeit a thin one.
How To Buy Bulk Epoxy Resin
You'll need to purchase more epoxy if you're using a seal coat than you would if you weren't using a seal coat. Do not mix the epoxy for both the seal coat and the final coat at the same time, though. You won't be applying the final coat until the seal coat has cured. If you mix all the epoxy at once, it will cure in the bucket while you are waiting for the seal coat to cure. Another way of saying this, are you controlling the thickness of the coat or letting the epoxy settle over the surface naturally?
Damming the edge of the surface gives you complete control over the thickness of the final layer, but it can be difficult to remove the material you used to dam the edges. If you're using self-leveling epoxy, it is designed not to be dammed in. Most epoxy sold for home use is self-leveling. As you can imagine, this has the potential to create an extreme mess, so if you're using this kind of epoxy you'll want to cover everything that isn't being coated in epoxy with plastic sheets.
The amount of epoxy you need will depend on whether or not you're letting it self-level or if you're damming it in. For two equally-sized surfaces, you would need less epoxy to achieve a coat of the same thickness if you use a dam than if you let it flow over the edges.
Is that thick enough for you? If you are trying to create a thicker coat of epoxy, you're going to need a lot more. If you want to create a thinner coat, well, you'd need less but you also probably shouldn't try that. Making it thicker also requires the use of a dam or a mold to hold everything in. This means you may not need as much extra epoxy as you might think to create a thicker layer, since you won't have any epoxy running off the edges.
Casting resin is thinner than coating epoxy, which means it spreads more and you could use a smaller amount of it to cover the same surface area. However, casting epoxies do not make good coats. Casting resin is really meant for use in encasing things for display, not forming a protective coating on a broad surface. They will not provide the same level of durability and protection as a coating epoxy will, because they are designed to be poured into very thick layers, rather than spread out over a counter top or a table in a thin layer.
They simply aren't strong in layers that thin. There is a general rule to help you understand how much epoxy you need.Keep in mind that all of the information below assumes that the epoxy has been properly measured and mix. The "P ot Life " of epoxy is the time that it takes for it to start gelling in the in the mix vessel typically a bucket.
So remember that the bigger you make the batch of epoxythe faster the batch will set. See the Epoxy Pot Life Page for more details. The " Tack Free Tim e" of the epoxy is pretty much just what it sounds like. It is the time that the epoxy is no longer sticky to the touch. When the epoxy is "Tack Free" it can be handle or even walked on if necessary, but you will want to be careful because the epoxy will be very vulnerable to scratching right after it becomes "Tack Free".
The " Initial Cure " is not the same as " Tack Free ". After the Epoxy's " Initial Cure " the epoxy is still vulnerable to scratching, but typically strong enough that these scratching will be strictly esthetic and not structural. In cases where time permits and esthetics are essential you may want to wait 1.
The primary outside force that can effect this time is temperature. When the epoxy has reached its " Final Cure " it has achieved the strengths indicated on the Epoxy's technical data sheet.
It also means that the epoxy has reached its full water resistance and full chemical resistance. This time also is also effected by temperature, similar to all the other times listed above.
Epoxy will continue to harden for as much as a year. It is typically said that the concrete is fully cured in 28 days. In fact concrete will under the right conditions continue to cure for up to years. For more information email me at norm epoxy.
Proper mixing and installation is critical to the optimal success of all products. Secure Login. Epoxy Installation Terminology Epoxy. Epoxy Pot Life aka Working Time The "P ot Life " of epoxy is the time that it takes for it to start gelling in the in the mix vessel typically a bucket. Final Cure aka "Full Chemical Cure" When the epoxy has reached its " Final Cure " it has achieved the strengths indicated on the Epoxy's technical data sheet. For more information please contact : Epoxy.I will say, they do make it easier.
Live edge slabs. Epoxy 3 gal kit. Fast drying epoxy. Dye starter kit. Pigment sample pack. CA glue and activator. Mold release. Osmo thin finish. Osmo top coat. Propane torch.
Bosch router. Mixing bucket package. Porter Cable Restorer. Variable speed angle grinder. Wire wheel for angle grinder. Buffer for finishing. Best orbital sander. Affordable good sander. Affordable good circular saw. Threaded inserts. Paddle mixer. Nitrile gloves. I always start my project by building a template to help me visualize my finished table.
For the best visualization, build your template so that the inside of the template is the size of your finished table. Once you have your template, take your time choosing a layout. Even if you think you know exactly how you want it orientated, take a few minutes and play around with other ideas by moving your slabs, flipping your slabs, or adding in other pieces just to see what it will look like.
Weight of one gallon of epoxy resin ?
You may surprise yourself. I have no shame and do this in my slab suppliers showroom. I got a few funny looks the first couple times I did it, but now they are used to me. I have one main rule for picking an amazing layout. No straight edges. When we build one of these tables, we are trying to mimic nature the best we can. You may think you can just add your own natural edge by carving it to replicate a natural curve.
However, In my opinion these never look right. The reason is, all natural curves of the tree have corresponding natural curves in the grain. If we try and mimic the curve with no corresponding grain, it will look like we faked it, which we did.Check out our easy steps to learn how to set up YOUR kit like a pro!Designer Epoxy Floor Installation That You Can Do Yourself
High fives, you did it! Our awesome Production Facilities Manager Daniel Hayes is here to show you exactly how the pros do it! Here's how to go from your front door to your first pour Set it on your desired work surface right side up, like this TIP: Make sure your work surface is strong enough to support the weight of the containers - they're heavy, about 40lbs each!
You also need to ensure your work surface is wide enough so that when you're ready to pour, you're able to sit your containers on their sides, like this STEP 2 Remove the plug from the cap, using an adjustable wrench. STEP 3 Firmly screw in the spigot supplied. STEP 4 Next, you'll need to make a vent hole - this allows air to pass through so that your ArtResin flows easily out of the spigot.
Unscrew the cap covering the vent hole. Insert a nail into the recessed area and give it a light tap or two with a hammer to open up the vent hole. By the way STEP 5 Set the container on its side to pour. TIP: Always keep latex gloves, paper towels and rubbing alcohol handy : As careful as we might be, accidents and drips happen to us all.
Here are a couple of things that we find helpful: - wear latex gloves to prevent sticky fingers! Allow any resin spills or drips to dry and just peel them right off! Spray it on paper towel to wipe up drips, sticky surfaces and to wipe off your spigot once your done pouring. Rubbing alcohol is great at breaking down epoxy resin, yes, but it also enables your skin to absorb it - and you don't want that!
Save it for cleaning your tools and work surface, but keep it well away from your bare skin when working with resin. Click here to see a video Dave made all about how to clean your sticky resin hands safely and effectively! There you have it! Sarah Robison is our Instagram Winner! Posted on 7 Oct Dueling Paintbrushes - Episode 1 Posted on 28 Sep Iness Kaplun is our Instagram Winner! Posted on 28 Sep